Climbing in the heart of the Dolomites

The crags of Faloria and Cristallo

Equipped rock faces, challenging pitches and unparalleled panorama, for climbers seeking tangible thrills.

Here, on the walls of Faloria-Cristallo, every hold becomes a tangible goal: the solid rock beneath your fingers, the fresh air surrounding you, your gaze extending towards the peaks. Whether you are looking for technical pitches, long routes, or a first taste of the vertical, these cliffs are ready to welcome every climb with safety, passion, and the most authentic view of the Dolomites.

The climbing walls

Key

   Mountain         Number of routes

Crepo Longo

   Faloria         20

Description

Thanks to the tried and tested collaboration between the Cortina Mountain Guides and the Faloria cable car, a new crag was recently equipped above Cortina on the rocky outcrop called Crepo Longo, on Monte Faloria.

At present the crag hosts 26 pitches up soldi greyish-black rock. Most climbs are in the 6a/6b region, but there are some 5c’s, two grade IV routes and at present just one 6c. The ease of access and south-west orientation combined with the beauty of the routes render Crepo Longo well-worth a visit.

Getting there

The easiest way to get there is definitely by using the Faloria cable car, from the centre of Cortina.
At the top descend north-east down the winter piste. Before reaching the start of the chairlift which leads to Tondi di Faloria take the obvious path signposted for the crag. The walk-in takes circa 20 minutes.

Alternatively, start from Rio Gere (by the Cristallo and Faloria chairlift), on the road which leads from Cortina to Passo Tre Croci. Park the car and continue on foot along the dirt road (path #212) which winds its way along the Faloria piste to reach the start of the chairlift which leads up to Tondi. Continue on to quickly reach the crag. This option is obviously far longer, calculate circa 1 hour for the walk-in.

The routes and grades

  1. Montana L1: 5c – L2: 6b
  2. Pik me 6a
  3. Saved 6a+
  4. Be free L1: 6a+ L2: 6a+ L3: 6a+
  5. Gully spit L1: 5c L2: 6b L3: 6a
  6. Red air 6a
  7. Hot rat 5c
  8. Why not 6a+
  9. Baby snakes 5c
  10. Tell me 5c
  11. Solid rock 6b+
  12. Once again 6b+
  13. Do not pass 6b+
  14. Too hard 6b+
  15. So hard 6c
  16. Ski-ing 6b
  17. Shake 6a
  18. Schotting L1: 5c L2: 6a
  19. Red sky 4a
  20. One size 4a
  1. Montana L1: 5c – L2: 6b
  2. Pik me 6a
  3. Saved 6a+
  4. Be free L1: 6a+ L2: 6a+ L3: 6a+
  5. Gully spit L1: 5c L2: 6b L3: 6a
  6. Red air 6a
  7. Hot rat 5c
  8. Why not 6a+
  9. Baby snakes 5c
  10. Tell me 5c
  11. Solid rock 6b+
  12. Once again 6b+
  13. Do not pass 6b+
  14. Too hard 6b+
  15. So hard 6c
  16. Ski-ing 6b
  17. Shake 6a
  18. Schotting L1: 5c L2: 6a
  19. Red sky 4a
  20. One size 4a

Rio Gere

   Rio Gere         19

Description

There’s a new playground for climbers: the Rio Gere crag.
The first routes on this enormous outcrop were bolted in the early 1990s by Diego Ghedina, known as “Tomasc”, from the Scoiattoli group, who realised the potential of this new climbing site in the Ampezzo area.

Diego soon abandoned this project, however, as he had discovered another irresistible face: the “Crepe de Oucera bassi”, which he studied and equipped from start to finish with unwavering and devoted passion.

Many years have passed since then, but recently two tireless climbers decided to give the area another shot: our experts Mox (Massimo Da Pozzo) and Bruno Sartorelli sorted out Tomasc’s original routes. The two Scoiattoli climbers also opened up numerous new routes, mainly long overhanging lines (up to 40 m).
Thanks to them, Cortina now has another stunning climbing wall to train on, the Rio Gere crag!

Getting there

From Cortina follow the directions to Passo Tre Croci – Misurina. Once out of town, after about 5 km you will see a junction on the left with a signpost for the “Brite de Larieto” restaurant. Continue along the main road for another hundred metres until you see a small lay-by on the right where you can leave your car. Take the path on the right (south-east) into the wood of sparse larch trees that goes past a riverbed and then climbs steeply at first to the enormous outcrop (15 minutes from the car park).

The routes and grades

  1. 4 punti di sutura – 7b 30m
  2. Ciapa e spera – 6c+/7a 35m
  3. Roulette Russa – 7b 35m
  4. Yellow power – 7c+ 35m
  5. Shrek – 6b 35m
  6. Che Pizza – 7b 35m
  7. Beata gioventù – 7a 35m
  8. ll peso non dorme – 7b 35m
  9. Il salto della pulce – 7a 35m
  10. Che meraviglia – 7a+ 38m
  11. Simba – 7b+ 35m
  12. Spigolo magico – 7c+ 40m
  13. Scherzi a parte – 7c+ 40m
  14. Da zanca a zanca – 7b 35m
  15. Chi non ha testa ha gambe – 7b+ 35m
  16. 100% natural holes – 7b 35m
  17. Che placca porca vacca – 7b 20m
  18. Ritorno alle origini – 6c 20m
  19. DNA falà – 7a 30m

  1. 4 punti di sutura – 7b 30m
  2. Ciapa e spera – 6c+/7a 35m
  3. Roulette Russa – 7b 35m
  4. Yellow power – 7c+ 35m
  5. Shrek – 6b 35m
  6. Che Pizza – 7b 35m
  7. Beata gioventù – 7a 35m
  8. ll peso non dorme – 7b 35m
  9. Il salto della pulce – 7a 35m
  10. Che meraviglia – 7a+ 38m
  11. Simba – 7b+ 35m
  12. Spigolo magico – 7c+ 40m
  13. Scherzi a parte – 7c+ 40m
  14. Da zanca a zanca – 7b 35m
  15. Chi non ha testa ha gambe – 7b+ 35m
  16. 100% natural holes – 7b 35m
  17. Che placca porca vacca – 7b 20m
  18. Ritorno alle origini – 6c 20m
  19. DNA falà – 7a 30m